By Nicole Flevaris, Founder & President of The Lashe
Published July 2026 | 14 minute read
Lash styling is where technique becomes design. A beautiful set is not created by simply choosing the longest extension or the fullest fan. It is created by understanding the client’s natural lashes, eye shape, facial features, lifestyle, maintenance habits, and the way the finished design should move with the face.
After working in the professional lash industry since 2007 and through years of hands-on client work connected to Salon Lashe in Chicago, I have watched lash trends change again and again. Dramatic volume became popular, then softer natural sets returned. Cat eye designs evolved into more lifted, lightweight versions. Brown lashes, wet look lashes, wispy sets, hybrid designs, and soft texture all became part of a much more personalized approach.
The most important shift is this: lash styling is no longer one-size-fits-all. The best lash design should complement the client, not overpower them.
What Is Lash Styling?
Lash styling is the process of selecting extension type, curl, length, weight, density, direction, texture, and placement pattern to create a finished look that suits the client. It combines technical application with visual design, supported by the clean isolation, controlled adhesive use, and precise placement principles of The Lashe Technique.
A lash artist may use the same products for two clients and create completely different results. One client may need a soft open-eye design with shorter outer corners. Another may benefit from a gradual cat eye. A third may look best in a natural classic set with brown extensions.
Good styling begins with observation. Before the first extension is applied, I look at:
- Natural lash strength and density
- Eye shape and eye spacing
- Brow shape and lid space
- Face shape and bone structure
- Whether the eyes are deep-set, prominent, hooded, downturned, or upturned
- The client’s glasses, makeup habits, work environment, and lifestyle
- How much maintenance the client realistically wants
Classic Lash Extensions
Classic lash extensions remain one of the most versatile styling options. One extension is applied to one natural lash, creating definition, length, and polish without excessive density.
Classic sets are ideal for clients who already have a healthy natural lash line and want a clean, mascara-like result. They can look soft and natural or more defined depending on curl, length, and spacing.
Classic does not mean basic. A carefully designed classic set can lift the outer corners, open the center of the eye, soften a mature lash line, or create elegant bridal definition.
Hybrid Lash Extensions
Hybrid lashes combine classic extensions with volume fans. They are often the best choice for clients who want more texture and fullness than classic lashes but do not want the density of a full volume set.
Hybrid styling allows the artist to place definition exactly where it is needed. Classic lashes can create clean spikes or direction, while volume fans fill gaps and soften transitions. This is especially helpful for clients with uneven natural lash density.
Volume Lash Extensions
Volume lash extensions use multiple lightweight extensions to create fans that are applied to individual natural lashes. Volume styling can range from soft and airy to dense and dramatic.
The goal is not simply to add more lashes. The goal is to distribute weight correctly, create balanced fan spacing, and design density that suits the client’s features and natural lash health.
Pre-Made Fan Lash Extensions
Pre-made fan extensions can help artists create fuller looks more efficiently. They work beautifully in hybrid, wet look, wispy, and soft volume designs when the artist selects the right weight and maintains clean attachment.
Pre-made fans should support design, not replace judgment. Fan size, base width, direction, and natural lash strength still matter.
The Cat Eye Lash Style
The cat eye is one of the most requested lash styles because it can elongate the eye and create a lifted appearance. But the outer corner must be handled carefully. If the longest lengths are placed too far outward, the eye can look heavy or downturned.
A successful cat eye usually begins softly at the inner corner, increases gradually through the middle and outer sections, and finishes with enough control to preserve lift. Curl selection is just as important as length progression.
The Open Eye or Doll Eye Style
An open-eye design places more visual emphasis near the center of the eye. This can create a brighter, rounder appearance and may be helpful for clients who want more openness through the middle.
It is not the right choice for everyone. On very round or prominent eyes, too much central length can create a surprised look. The artist should balance center length with softer transitions.
Natural Lash Styling
The rise of natural-looking lash extensions reflects a broader shift toward personalized beauty. Clients increasingly want to look polished without looking heavily styled.
Natural lash design often uses shorter lengths, lighter density, softer curls, and subtle texture. Brown lashes, genuine mink, classic sets, and light hybrids all work well for this approach.
Wispy Lash Extensions
Wispy sets use controlled texture, alternating lengths, and visible spikes to create movement. They can be soft and natural or bold and editorial.
The challenge is balance. Random spikes can make the set look unfinished. Professional wispy styling should have a clear rhythm and intentional placement.
Wet Look Lash Extensions
Wet look lashes create narrow, closed, or nearly closed fans that resemble lashes after water or mascara has grouped them together. The result is defined, spiky, and modern.
This style works best when the client has enough natural lashes to support an evenly distributed design. On sparse lash lines, the narrow fans may emphasize gaps instead of creating fullness.
Brown Lash Extensions
Brown lash extensions create a softer alternative to black. They are especially beautiful on blondes, redheads, clients with lighter coloring, mature clients, and anyone who wants less contrast at the lash line.
Brown can also be mixed with black to create a dimensional hybrid look. The result can be subtle while still providing length and volume.
Genuine Mink Lash Extensions
Genuine mink lash extensions are known for softness, lightness, and natural movement. Their tapered structure makes them useful for delicate styling, rehabilitation sets, mature clients, sparse natural lashes, and designs where weight must be carefully controlled.
How Eye Shape Influences Lash Design
Eye shape should guide styling, but it should not become a rigid formula. Two clients may both have almond eyes and still need different designs because of brow placement, lid space, face shape, or natural lash direction.
Downturned eyes often benefit from lift before the outermost corner. Hooded eyes may need curl and placement that create openness without touching the lid. Deep-set eyes may need curl that moves the extensions forward. Prominent eyes may look best with softer length and controlled density.
How Face Shape Influences Lash Design
Lash design affects the balance of the entire face. A long face may benefit from width and softness rather than extreme vertical emphasis. A round face may benefit from controlled elongation. Strong cheekbones may pair beautifully with lifted outer styling.
This is where corrective styling becomes valuable. The goal is not to change the client’s face. It is to create balance and highlight the features they already have.
How Curl Changes the Final Look
Curl can change a design as much as length. A softer curl may create a natural profile, while a stronger curl can open the eye or lift a downward-growing natural lash.
The curl should work with the natural lash direction. Choosing curl only because it is popular can create awkward attachment or excessive lift.
Styling for Mature Clients
Mature clients often benefit from lightweight styling, softer contrast, controlled curl, and shorter lengths. Heavy density can overpower the eye area or create unnecessary weight.
Brown lashes, genuine mink, classic sets, and soft hybrids are excellent options. The design should create polish and lift without looking harsh.
Styling for Glasses Wearers
Clients who wear glasses need enough clearance between the extensions and the lenses. Excessive length can cause tapping, bending, and discomfort.
A shorter, curl-focused design often works better than simply adding length. The artist should ask the client to bring their glasses to the appointment whenever possible.
Bridal Lash Styling
Bridal lashes should photograph beautifully, wear comfortably, and match the bride’s normal beauty style. A bride who rarely wears makeup may not feel like herself in a very dramatic set.
Soft volume, natural hybrid, brown lashes, and genuine mink can all create elegant bridal results. Trial timing, fill timing, and aftercare are just as important as the style itself.
Seasonal Lash Trends
Clients often change lash preferences throughout the year. Spring and summer may inspire lighter, airy, colorful, or vacation-friendly looks. Fall and winter often bring richer tones, fuller texture, and more dramatic styling.
At The Lashe in Chicago, humid summers and dry winters can influence adhesive behavior, aftercare, and how clients maintain their sets. Seasonal styling should always be paired with realistic retention and maintenance guidance.
How Lifestyle Should Influence Lash Style
A busy professional may prefer a polished classic or hybrid set that grows out evenly. A client who travels frequently may want a style that is easier to maintain. A bride may need a carefully timed series of appointments. A glasses wearer may need shorter lengths.
The best style is the one the client can comfortably wear and maintain.
Current Lash Trends
Today’s strongest trends are moving toward customization. Wet look lashes, brown lashes, soft hybrids, wispy texture, lightweight cat eyes, and natural-looking sets are all popular because they can be adapted to the individual client.
The future of lash styling is not one dominant look. It is better design.
How I Choose a Lash Style for a Client
I begin with the natural lashes and the client’s features. Then I ask what they want to feel when they look in the mirror. Do they want softness, lift, definition, fullness, drama, or ease?
From there, I choose the extension material, curl, length progression, density, and texture that will create that result without compromising natural lash health.
The Bottom Line
Lash styling is a combination of technique, design, and professional judgment. Classic, hybrid, volume, wet look, wispy, brown, mink, cat eye, and natural styles can all be beautiful when they are adapted to the client.
The best lash design does not simply follow a trend. It uses the trend thoughtfully, respects the natural lashes, and creates a result that feels balanced, wearable, and personal.